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INSTRUCTION BOOK 



FOR THE 



...STANDARD- 




TAILOR SYSTEM... 







A SELF-INSTRUCTOR '^^/^^^ 



WITH 



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IN THE ART OF 

Cutting all Styles of Garments, 



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FOR 



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Ladies, Gentlemen, Children and Infants. 



EateKd according to Act of Congrts* 
A. O. 1896. 



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.by. 



H. P. BVAN CO,, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



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standard Tailor System consists of a Tailor's Square, a set of Thirty-four Scales and In- 
struction book, also a set of Object Lesson Appliances, consisting of an Object Lesson Square, five 
Object Lesson Scales and two Object Lesson Rulers. 

The Tailor's Square has joined to its inner edge a set of curves used instead of a compass to 
obtain curves for outlines, and these curves are lettered in alphabetic order. The square is also 
marked showing which way the ends of the square are to point, and character on each side ot the square indi- 
cate which side is to be used, and these are again given in the diagrams to aid the learner in finding the proper 
curves without stud}^ or loss of time. 

The Scales number from 18 to 51 and show by their numbers, the number of inches they represent, and 
are, without a doubt, the most comprehensive and complete Scales ever offered to the public. 

The Book of Instruction contains Object Lessons, Illustrations and Diagrams of ladies' gentlemen's, 
children's and infants' garments. 

The Object Lesson Square, Scales and Rulers are to aid the learner in self-instruction and together with 
the Object Lessons to act as the ever read}'' teacher. 

The method of teaching by Object Lessons and by Object Lesson Appliances through the Instruction 
Book is entireiy new and a marvel of simplicity. It make^ drafting so easy to learn that anyone, even with 
a very limited learning and moderate ability, can learn to use the system successfully in a very short time. 
There are no problems to work and nothing to commit to memorv, consequently nothing to forget. 

With the Standard Tailor System all styles of garments can be cut from the daintiest Infant's slipper 
and the most artistic and stjdish ladies' garments, to boy's jackets and men's shirts and pants, making 
the System complete for family use as well as for the professional cutter. 

Books giving new stj^les will be published as often as styles demand. 

For further information address: 

H. P. EVAN CO., 

Central Ofiice, Chicago, III. General Supply Office, Winneconne, Wis. 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Directions for Taking Measures. 



To take correct measures is very essential. It is evident that however accurate a system of garment 
cutting is, a correct result cannot be obtained from incorrect measures. 

Difficult measvires have been avoided and with a little care the necessary' measures may be taken cor- 
rectly by anyone. 

All desired adjustments of the figure should be made before proceeding to take measures. All measures 
are taken outside of garments for which measured. If measures are not taken -outside of cloaks, jackets or coats, 
draft by scale one size larger than measure. 

/. Bust Measure. 

Pass the tape line over fullest part of the bust, close up under the arms and a little over the shoulder blades, 
take a smooth measure, neither tight nor loose. 

2. Waist Measure. 

Pass the tape line around the smallest part of the waist, draw it tight. 

3- Length of Waist at Front. 

From point of collar to waist as low as can be worn. 

4. Length of Under=Arm. 

Let the person measured hold the arm down in a natural position ; measure from under the arm as high 
as o-arment can be worn, but not too high, and directly down to waist-line. If measuring for outside 
garments, cloaks or jackets, take this measure a little shorter. 



5 Length of Back. 

Take length of waist in the back from prominent neck bone to bottom of waist. 

EXTRA MEASURES. 
While the foreging are the necessary measures for all Basques and Waists, yet the following four ad- 
ditional measures may be taken by people of experience, but these are difficult measures to take, and the unex- 
perienced are advised to avoid them, as they are not necessary for this system. Diagrams are provided for 
differently developed figures and give the same result as correctly taken measures. 

6. Width of Chest. 

Let the person measured stand naturally erect, measure across chest from arm's-eye to arra's-eye. 

7. Width of Bacii. 

In same position as above, measure across the back about one-halfway between shoulder point and depth 
of arm's-eye. 

8. Length of Shoulder. 

From neck to length desired, 

9. Height of Darts. 

Measure from waist line to raise of bust. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO. ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 3 

Sleeve Measures. 

10. Length of Sleeve. 

Stand a little at the back of the person measured, place tape line at arm's-eye and run it down inside seam 
to elbow and on to wrist, or to length desired, noting length at elbow. 

//. Muscle Measure. 

Take this measure around the fleshy part of the arm, about one half way between elbow and shoulder to 
width desired. 

12. Elbow Measure. 

Holding the arm curved, measure around the elbow to desired width, 

13. Wrist Measure. 

Measure around the hand or wrist to width desired. 

Skirt rieasures. 

14. Hip. 

Measure over dress, around the fullest part of the Hips, quite snugly. 

15. Length of Front. 

From waist to floor or length desired, 

16. Length of Side. 

From waist to floor or desired length. 

17. Length of Back. 

From waist to floor or length desired. 



Tea=Qowns and Wrappers. 



For these garments the measures of the basque and skirt are combined. Measure Front and Back from the 
neck, and, noting the length of the Waist, pass the tape line on to the desired length of the garment. Also at 
the Under-Arm notice the length of the waist, and pass the tape line on to length desired. All the other 
measures are the same as for the basque. The principals for drafting are also the same as those of the basque 
and skirt. 

Collars and Cuffs. 

18 Collars. 

If Neck measure is used for collars, measure around the neck where collar will come, as tightly or loosely 
as fit is desired, 

Cuffs. 

For cufts apply wrist measure. If any measures are used for auxiliary parts of any garments, such as 
waist-bands, wrist-bands, plaits, &c., use same as for body of garment. 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Instructions for Drafting. 



HI. In drafting select scale by Bust or Breast measui'e for all garments for upper part of figure, and by hip 
measure for all garments for lower part of figure. 

112. For all Wrappers, Tea-gowns, Night Robes, &c., where the upper and lower parts of the garment are 
drafted together, draft the entire garment by scale corresponding with Bust measure. 

113. Draft all parts of one garment by same scale For example: Sleeves, Cuffs, Revers, Lapels, Pockets, 
Bands and all auxiliary parts are drafted b\' same number of scale as bod}- of garment. 

114. Usescale "A" on all Base-lines and all lines running lengthwise of garments. 

115. Use scale "B" on all lines running at right angle from baseline, andlines running crosswise of garments. 

1f6. Sinall scale at edge of scale "B" is never used unless "S. Sc." is marked at a number of inches as ^*sc^ 
on Waist line of Object Lesson No. 5. 

117. Where a circle is around an^' figure, place same figure of scale "B" on the last taken point, as on waist- 
line of Object Lesson No. 5, where No. 3 of scale "B" is placed on waist-line at the ^|_|^" point, or where the en- 
circled figured is close to base-line, place same figure of scale "B" on base line, as in Object Lesson No. 7, where 
point 5 of scale "B" is placed on base-line. 

118. Use curved edge of square for all outlines. Place square so that marks of the side, the arrows and 
the letters correspond with those in the diagrams. All unmarked lines are made by the straight edges 
of the square. 

Ladies Skirts 

ARE AN EXCEPTION TO PARAGRAPh'5. 

119. Draft upper part of skirts by paragraphs 4 and 5, but where scalesTiigherthanNo. 31 are used, use scale 
''A" on the bottom line to determine width of skirt at the bottom. This refers to Ladies' Skirts Only and this 
paragraph will be refered to at each diagram where it is to be applied. 




ADDRESS : H. F. EVAN CO.. CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



General Directions. 

Great care should be used in tracing and basting. It would be well to remember that accuracy is as assen- 
tial in both tracing and basting as in drafting. 

1. Tracing. If paper is used to draft on, pin pattern securely on material, placing base-line when unmarked 
straight with the lengthwise edge or lengthwise thread of the material, and if marked with two tt place base- 
line straight with crosswise thread or edge of material, and if marked with three ttt on bias edge of material. 

And if base-line is marked with one * place it on lengthwise fold, if marked with two ** on crosswise fold 
and if marked with three *** on bias fold of material. In tracing Basques, Tea-Gowns &c., place pattern with 
base-line either lengthwise or crosswise of lining, and place closing edges, either for front or back closing far 
enough in from edge of lining for turning under, and one quarter inch for closing lap; or if under lacingis pre- 
fered, allow besides the seam one-quarter inch for lapping at the closing. 

Trace all outlines and all notch-marks and waist=lines,-= always trace the waist=line. 

2. CUTTING. Having drafted bj' actual measures no seams are allowed, therefore in cutting out garments 
always cut the desired width of seams and hems outside of the tracing except the neck and the arm's-eyes,, 
where the tracing is followed. Cut notches at all notch-marks. 

3. BASTING ON LINING. In basting lining on dress goods locate each piece of lining on goods as it was 
located in the draft, that is, let thread in cloth run parallel, or straight, with threads in lining. In all tight fitting 
garments having a waist-line, baste through the waist-line first, and hold the lining loose on the goods for 
about an inch each side of the waist-line, so as to have outside fit smoothly over curve of figure. Also 
hold lining loose on dress-goods on front shoulder and a little loose on back shoulder and at side-form curve of 
back from 3 or 4 inches down the seam up to arm's-eye at point 16, third Hne. 

DARTS. Hold lining together at top of darts to take in a quarter or three-eighths of an inch to prevent 
extra fullness at top of darts. On French darts or French Bias dart take in from one-half to five-eighths 
inch at top of darts. 

4. BASTING TOGETHER. In basting together waists, basques, tea-gown, or any other garments hav- 
ing a waist-line, always start basting at the waist-line, placing the waist-line tracings together and basting 
up, pinning upper part of seam together to make upper end of seam meet perfectly, and in some manner baste 
down from the waist-line. Baste darts from the top and pav no attention to the waist-line tracing, and cut 
darts out. In basting closing edges, allow one-quarter inch outside of tracing for lap in closing, whether gar- 
ments are closed in the front or in the back. 

Stretch front shoulder to length of back shoulder never cut it off . If neck fits snugly stretch it. Always 
place a one-half or three-quarters inch bias band at the neck of all Children's and Infants' garments before join- 
ing collars or trimming to neck, unless othewise directed or prefered. ' 

SLEEVES. .Gather sleeves between notches and place tight-fitting sleeve with outside seam to side-form 
seam point 16 third line, loose-fitting sleeves without lining with front notch to notch in front arm's-eye at 
point 16, third line. 

A belt should always be fastened to the inside of all basques and waists a little above the straight waist- 
line at the back. 



6 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Object Lesson No. L 

In these Object Lessons the student is requested to use the Object Lesson Square, and Scale No. 2. and to 
go over the diagram of each lesson with the square and scale as the work progresses, just as if making the 
draft, (but without marking,) and not to slight any part, because it is "too easy." 

Object lessons Nos. 1, 2 and 3, treat on front of Ladies tight-fitting basque drafted to measure given in 
the lessons. Object Lesson No. 1 teaches application of scale "A". 

(See Paragraphs 1 and 4, Page 4-.) 

1. Place square on diagram and see that first line is drawn by short arm of square, and base-line by long 
arm of square. 

The beginning of the scales is the line on which the letters "A" and "B" are placed. 

2. Take scale and place beginning of scale "A" on first line of diagram and see that dots are marked at 3, 
8, 17 and 20 on base-line. 

3. Take square and measure down from point 20 length of Under=arm measure (8^2 inches.) Then meas- 
ure from point 8 at neck down the length of front=measure ( 14 inches), and from this point measure down 7, 
inches for length below the waist. (Alwaj's make this 7 inches to get the proper hip curve then mark it to length 
desired.) 

Having obtained all points on base-line proceed to draw lines from all points requiring lines. 

4. Place corner of square at point three with short arm of square even with base=Iine and draw second 
line. In like manner draw third line from point 17, fourth or bust-line from point 20, and the straight waist- 
line from point of under-arm measure (8% inches). Always see that short arm of square is even with base-line 
before drawing cross-lines. 



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OBJECT LESSON NO. I. 



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ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



Object Lesson No. 2. 



TEACHING APPLICATION OF SCALE "B." 

(See Paragraph 5 Page 4.) 

1st. Place scale "B" on first line, with beginning of scale on base-line, and mark at 5 on first line. Bring 
scale down to second line and mark at 17 for shoulder, then to point 8 at neck and mark 1 space inside of base- 
line. Bring scale to third line and mark at 16; and to fourth or bust-line and mark at 6, 14, 20 and 23, 
always being careful that first line of scale is on base-line, then bring scale down to waist-line and mark at 23. 

2d. Make a point one-half way between the 8% inch point and the 14 inch point and place scale "B" 
straight out from this point and mark at 15 ; draw sloping waist-line from point 15 to the 14 inch point on 
base-line and mark at 4, 8 and 10. 

3d. Place corner of square at point 23 on waist line and measure down 7 inches, draw hip line 
from the 7 inch point on base line and through this point and on to required length. On hip line mark at 4, 7, 
10 and J.3 for bottom of darts, then turn pencil on the point at 30, so as to make a small clear dot, place be- 
ginning of scale on this dot and mark at 3, making point 33 for spring on hip. 

4. To obtain points for top of darts, turn scale to "A" side and place beginning of scale on bust line at 
point 14 and mark down 8 spaces for back dart and at point 6 mark down 9 spaces for front dart, then 
bring scale up to point 17, second line, and mark down 1 space for shoulder. We use scale "A" for these 
points because they are measures of length. (See paragraph 4, page 4.) 



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8 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Object Lesson No. 3. 

TEACHING APPLICATION OF CURVES. 
(See Paragkaph 8, Page 4.) 

In drafting the oiatline, place the square so that the letters, the arrows and the marks of the sides^ 
correspond with those of the lesson draft. 

First observe which side shall be up, then which way the arrow points, and then which letter is used, and 
when one line has been drawn do not change the position of the square before observing the next position so 
as not to turn the square to disadvantage. Follow the lines around in order, beginning at the neck. 

1. NECK. With side of sqtiare, arrow pointing up, place letter "D" at point 1, and draw neck curve from 
point 1 to point 5 on first line. 

2. SHOULDER. With same side ofsquare up bring arrow to point down to shoulder with "N" at point 5 
and lower part ofsquare on point 17, second line, draw line one-halfway, then reverse square to -\- side and 
with the letter "N" finish the shoulder curve down to point 1 below the 17 point. 

3. ARM'S EYE. With same side ofsquare, arrow pointing up, and letter I on point 16, or near it, and 
with upper part of curved edge on point 17, second line, draw arm 's-eye curve from point 20 on bust-line 
through point 16 on third line to curved shoulder line. 

4. UNDER-ARM. Keep square in same position and bring curve "R" down to point 23 on straight waist- 
line and draw^ under-arm curve to point 23 on bust-line. 

5. HIP CURVE, Keep same side ofsquare up, turn so that arrow points down, and bring curve "P" to 
point 23 on straight waist-line and draw curve to point 33 on hip-line. • 

6. DARTS. Keep square in same position and bring curve "P"up to point 8 at top of back dart and draw 
line to point 15 on sloping waist-line ; in like manner draw back line of front dart from point 9 at top to 
point 8 sloping waist-line. 




OBJECT LESSON No. 3, OR DIAGRAM No. 1, 



addrp:ss h. p. evan co., Chicago, ill., and winneconne, wis. 9 



Reverse Square to O side and by same curve draw front curve of front dart from point 9 at top to 4 on 
sloping waist-line ; in same position bring curve N. to point 8 of back dart and draw line to point 10 sloping 
waist-line. 

B}^ straight edge of square draw straight lines from points on waist-line to hip Hne, beginning with line 
from point 15 to 13 on hip. 

7. CURVE OF FRONT. With side arrow down, bring curve V to point 1 at neck and draw line to point 
17 on base-line; bring curve R down to this point and finish front curve to upper waist-line. 

All unmarked lines wherever found throughout the book, are made b}- straight edges of the square. 



Agents Wanted. 

If you wish to engage in profitable business, the THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM can afford you such 
employment. We can give you healthful, pleasant and continuous as well as profitable employment at your 
home or tra\eling. 

We are desirous to employ energetic people, both ladies and gentlemen, to introduce this system, and can 
give you the very best of opportunity to make money. 

The STA]S«DARD TAILOR SYSTEM is a strictly first-class article in every detail, in appearance, in qual- 
ity and in merits, every part is of high grade material, making it attractive in appearance and unquestionable 
in durability, commending itself at sight. It is without a doubt the mostnearly perfect, and themost complete 
garment drafting device ever offered to the public, and meets the approbation of every person interested in sty- 
lish and perfect fitting garments. It is a Tailor System not only in name, as is the case with the greater num- 
ber of dress-cutting methods, but by principles. The principles of the STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM are 
those of the sguare and compass combined, hence its accuracy, its elasticity to follow every development of 
figure, its unlimited range in variety of garments, and its unequaled facility to follow every fashion to its 
smallest detail of novelty. 

The system is a marvel of simplicity to learn, having a complete series of Object Lessons, which with their 
explicit explanations render oral instructions unnecessary in most cases, saving time for both instructor and 
learner. 

The "STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM" sells rapidly, because it is practical, rehable, cheap, durable and in 
every way a benefactor to the purchaser. No special talent is required to sell the system, its merits work its 
way like an under-current, making the work comparatively easy and pleasant, and honest efforts and persever- 
ance is all that are necessary to make the work a grand success- Any honest person, lady or gentlemen, will 
find introducing this system a brilliant opportunity to mak e money faster than in any other honest way. But 
small capital is necessary and there is no risk. We give our agents the greatest inducement, liberal. terms, 
prompt and careful attention to their orders, faithful protection and all the assistance that our varied experi- 
ence enables us to give to crown their efibrts with the greatest possible success. 

We can furnish you Local, County, State or TraveUng Agency. Your correspondence is solicited. Send in 
your application at once and it will receive our immediate and careful attention. 

Address all applications and all orders to— 

H. P. EVAN CO., Winneconne, Wis. 

p. O. BOX 80. 



10 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Object Lesson No. 4 



\ 



APPLICATION OF SCALE "A". 

(See Paragraph 4, Page4.) 

Object Lessons Nos. 4, 5 and 6, treat of Ladies' tight-fitting basque back with portions set apart for seam. 
In this lesson the principles are the same as in Lesson No. 1. 

1. Draw first line and base-line at right angles, place beginning of scale "A" on first line and mark on base- 
line at points 1, 7, 13, 18 and 21. 

2. From point 21 measure down length of under-arm measure (8V2IN. ), and from 1 point measure 
down length of back measure (17 in.) from this point measure down 7 inches for skirt of basque (always make 
this 7 IN. to get proper curves below waist-line, then mark it off to length desii'ed). 

2. By long edge of square draw straight lines from all points on bavSe-line except point 1 at the neck and 
the 7iN. point at the bottom, being careful that the short arm of square is even with the base=line before drawing 
each line. 



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OBJECT LESSON NO. 4. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO. ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



11 



Object Lesson No. 5. 

APPLICATION OF SCALE "B". 
(See Paragraph 5 Page 4.) 

1. Apply scale "B" as in lesson No. 2, by placing scale "B" along first line with beginning of scale even with 
base-line and markine at No. 4 on first line ; bring scale to second line and mark at 16 for shoulder, on third 
line mark at 16 and 21, on fourth line mark at 1, 22 and 29, on fifth or bust -line turn the pencil on the point at 
30, so as to give a small clean dot, place beginning of scale at this dot and mark at 5 making point 35. 

2 WAIST-LINE. On the straight waist-line mark at 6 and 11, and in the small scale at the waist 
measures, 24 in., then bring point 3 on scale "B" to the 24 in. point just made and mark at 10, and again at 
the waist measure in the small scale, (see paragraph, 6 and 7 page 4.) 

3. Place corner of square at each of the 24 in. points on waist-hne and mark at 7 inches below, then place 
long edge of square from the 7-inch point on base-line to the farthest 7-inch point and draw hip-line. 

4. Place beginning of scale "B" on base-line and mark on hip Hne at 1, 6 and 8, then place beginning of scale 
the first 7-iN. point and mark at 3 and 4, and from the farthest 7-in. point mark out 5 spaces for hip-curve. 

5. The distance between the two base-lines, points 8V^in. and 17 inches on the base-line is the slope in the 
waist-line of the back, and must be devided on the three sections of the back, the center-back, the side-form and 
the under-arm-gore, without losing any of it on the distance between the pieces. Point off on base-line nearest 
the lower point a small portion for center-back ; and divide the rest in two equal parts for side-form and 
under-arm-gore. Place corner of square at upper dot as for drawing a straight line and draw a short mark 
under point 10, and another under the nearest 24 in. point, (the Waist measure point) ItDwer square to next 
dot, and make short mark under point 11 and 6. 



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OBJECT LESSON No. 5. 



13 



12 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Object Lesson No, 6, 

APPLICATION OF CURVES ON BACK. 
(See Paragraph 8, Page 4. ) 

Apph' curves by letters, arrow and indication marks same as in Lesson No. 3. 

1. CENTER-BACK. By straight edgeofsquare draw line from point on hip-line to point 3 on lowerwaist- 
line. By curve "R", arrow up, O side draw curved line from this point to point 1 fourth line. From point 1 
fourth line, draw by straight edge to point 1 on base-line. 

2. SHOULDER. Place curve N. at point 4 first line, and with arrow pointing down the shoulder, side, 
draw shoulder curve to point 16 on second line. 

3. ARM'S-EYE. Turn square to \ side arrow pointing up and by curve N. draw line from point 16 on 
third line to point 16 on second line; with square in same position, draw b}^ curve J. from point 22 on fourth 
line to 21 on third line and by curve G from point 35 on fifth, or bust -line to point 29 on fourth line, also side 
curve by R. from the 24 in. point on waist-line to 37 on bust-line. 

4. HIP. Turn square endwise keeping same side up, and by curve P, draw hip-curve from the outer 24 inch 
point on waist-line to point 5 on hip-line. 

5. UNDER-ARM & SIDE-FORM. Reverse square to side, still pointing arrow down, bring curve 
up to point 29 fourth line, and draw line through point 10 on waist down to sloping waist-line mark below 
point 10. 

By same curve mark from point 22 fourth line through the first 24 in. point on waist-line to sloping waist- 
line mark below. 

By curve "K" mark in same manner from point 21 through 11 and down, and from point 16 through point 
6 and down to sloping waist-line marks below. 

6. SLOPING WAIST-LINE. Draw sloping waist-line across each piece, that is, on the back, from point 3 
to line below point 6, on side-form line below 11 to line below the first waist-measure point, (24 in.) and on 
under-arm-piece from line under point 10 to straight waist-line at second waist-measure point. 

7 BELOW WAIST-LINE. Draw curves from Sloping waist=line to hip line by curves as indicated. 




)IN 



DIAGRAM No. 2. (Lesson No. 6.) 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WIXNECONNE, WIS. 



13 



Object Lesson No, 7. 



TREATING OF LADIES' TIGHT-FITTING BASQUE WITH PORTIONS DRAPED TOGETHER. 

This is drafted essentially the same as diagram No. 2. 

Apply principles of paragraph 4^ and 5 (see page 4'). 

THE STRAIGHT WAIST-LINE. Place 5 on scale "B" on base=l!ne and markat 11, and in thesmall scaleat 
waist-measure, (2-tix., ) then placelO on scale "B" at the point just taken andmark againat the waist-measure, 
(24 IN. ). in the small scale. 

THE SLOPING WAIST-LINE. Draw sloping waist-line from point 3 (on the 17 in. line) to the farthest 
w^aist-measure point on straight waist -line. 

HIP. Place corner of square at waist-measure points (24 in. ) on straight ^Yaist-line and measure straight 
down 7 IN., as in lesson No. 5, and draw hip-line. 

Mark on hip-line at 1, Sand 6, then mark at 3 space, each side of the first 7 in. mark straight down from 
waist and five spaces ovit from the second, for hip curve. Outlines are drawn as in Lesson No. 5. (see paragraph 
8, page 4.) Be guided by dotted lines for side-form below the waist-line. To run side-form seam to 'shoulder, 
mark at 12 on second line and mark by curve P. to waist-line, instead of form point 16 by curve K. 

TO APPLY EXTRA MEASURES. 
(6 — 9 page 2) 
BACK. 
When using the extra measures apply width of back on third line and Length of Shoulder, b\' placing curve 
N at point 4, first line, with lower part of curve at point 16, second line, and drawing shoulder curve to the 
number of inches of shoulder measure. 

FRONT. 
Apply Width of Chest on third line, ieng-th of shoulder from point 5 first line, to one-half inch shorter than 
back shoulder; see directions for basting page 5. Measure height of darts up from sloping waist-line. 




DIAGRAM NO. 3. (Lesson No.:7.) 



14 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Object Lesson No, 8. 

TIGHT-FITTING SLEEVE. 

(See Par.\graphs 3, 4 and 5, Page 4.) 

Place scale "A" with beginning of scale on first line and mark on base-line at 4, 6 and 15. 
TO GET LENGTH OF SLEEVE. Measure by long edge of square from point 15 down the base-line to 
length of elbow (9 in. ) and on to length of sleeve ( 17 in. ) ; then mark by scale 4 spaces below elbow and wrist 
points (see paragraph 4, page 4. 1 and one-halfway between point 15 and elbow (the 9 inch point) for muscle- 
line. Draw lines of length required as shown in diagram below. 

APPLICATION OF SCALE "B". 

It 

On first line mark at 10 and 20; on second line at 10, on third at 28 and on fourth or muscle line at 3, on 
elbow line (from the 9 in, point) mark at 4 spaces. 

WIDTH OF SLEEVE. Place corner of sqare a:t point 3 on muscle-line and by short arm of square measure 
out one-half of muscle measure, in this case 6V^ inches, (muscle measure being 13 inches) then measure width of 
elbow, from point 4 on elbow-line to the line below by sloping square so as to touch lower line at one-half of 
elbow^ measure, 6 inches (elbow measure being 12 inches in this draft). In like manner measure from wrist point 
(the 17 in. point,) sloping square to low^er line at one-half of wrist measure, here 4 inches, (wrist measure be- 
ing 8 inches). By scale (see paragraph 5 ), measure 3 spaces out from the 4 inch point on bottom line then 
place beginning of scale at that point with scale pointing towards the base-line and touching at the wrist point 
on base-line as shown b}' dotted line, and measure back 6 spaces. In like manner measure outS'spaces from the 
width of elbow point (the 6 inch point) and wdth scale extending from point 3 to point 4 upper elbow-line 
measure back 6 spaces. On muscle-line measure 5 spaces each way from the muscle measure point (the 6V2 
inch point). 

The most convenient waj- to handle scale for points 3 and 6 on wrist and elbow, is to place 3 at the inch 
point with beginning of scale out and mark at beginning of scale to make point three, then without moving be- 
ginning of scale bring upper part of scale to wrist point on base-line, at elbow to point 4 on upper elbow-line 
and mark 6 spaces back; this makes very easy handling of the scale. 






V<^ 



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OBJECT LESSON NO. 8. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



15 



Object Lesson No. 9. 

APPLICATION OF CURVES. 
(See Paragraph 8 Page 4.) 

1. WRIST. By short arm of square draw wrist-line from point 3 to the 17 inch point, over dotted line. 

2. INSIDE SEAM. Bring curve "P" up to point 15 of base-line and with -\- side arrow down draw curve 
to point 4 upper elbow line touching at point 3 on muscle-line. Without turning square bring curve "0" on 
point 4 and finish inside seam to the 17 inch point on base-line. 

3. OUTSIDE SEAM. Bring curve "P" back to point 6 at elbow and draw line to point 6 on sloping 
wrist-line. Shove square back and by curve "0" draw line from point 3 at elbow to point 3 at waist. 

Without turning square bring straight edge up and draw line from point 3 at elbow to point 28 on third line 
touching at point 5 on muscle-line. Then turn square endwise and by curve "P" arrow up "0" side drav^^ 
curve from point 6 at elbow to point 5 on muscle line, and by straight edge of square finish line to point 10 
on second line. 

6. TOP OF SLEEVE. Without turing square bring curve "J" up to point 15 on base-line and draw curve 
to point 10 second line finishing under sleeve. By same curve and side pointing arrow downward draw line 
from point 10 first line to point 15 on base-line. Turn square to -\- side arrow pointing from j'-ou draw by curve 
"J" from point 10 on first line to point 20 on same line; bring curve "J" to point 20 and draw line to point 
28 second line finishing upper sleeve. 

FURTHER EXERCISES. 

After going over these lessons thoroughly, select Scale No. 36 and draft full size pattern by same measures 
and same instructions before drafting bv other measures. 




f //V. 



DIAGRAM No. 3. 



16 THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Review of Lessons. 

" From the principles of the foregoing Object Lessons the following is devised : 

1. That scales "A" are used on lines running lengthwise and refer to measures of length. 

2. That scales "B" are used on lines running crosswise and refer to measures ot width. 

3. That smalLscale along theedge of scales "B" is used only where s. sc.is marked on diagrams'and always 
applies an actual inch measure taken, as on waist-line of Lesson No. 5 and 9, and that where a figure is encir- 
cled the same figure of scale "B" is to be placed on the point nearest the encircled figure as in lesson No. 7, and 
that occurs only in connection with the small scale which is always marked s. sc. 

These three principles are used throughout the whole system and all garments are drafted by them, unless 
special directions are given under the particular diagrams. 

Should further information be desired it will be promptly and cheerfully given by addressing 

H. P. EVAN CO., W/NNECONNE. W/S . 

P. O. BOX 80. 



Object Lessons Continued, 



■ As in the foregoing lessons, Object Lesson Square and Scales may be applied to any diagram in the entire 
instruction book. 

The number of scale to be applied is given at each diagram marked S. C. and giving number, and if ruler is 
used the number of that is given, as for example on page 4-t, (r^. no- 2) scale No. 4 and ruler number 2 are used, 
so these diagrams are realy a series of Object Lessons of Mrhich each and every one can be explained by the Ob- 
ject Lesson Square, Scales and Rulers. 

For new book and semi-annual reports address — 

H. P. EVAN CO., 

[General supply office,] W/NNECONNE. WIS. 

P. O. BOX 80. 



ADDRESS H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



17 




Boys' Suit, 

Blouse-Waist Page 79. 
Knee Pants Page 88. 




Introduce the STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM to your 
friends and neighbors; it will pa}' vou better for your time 
and labor than anything else, and you will do them a favor. 
'Write for wholesale prices. 





Ladies' Toilette, 



.ADDRESS. 



M. P. Evan Co., 



Winneconne, 



P O. Box 8o. 



Wis. 




Ladies' seven-gored Skirt P^g^ ^^ 

Ladies' shirt-waist P^g^ ^^ (jirls' A^ptOtl* 



Sleeve page 41 

Collars and cults • P^g^ ^^ 



Pages 74 and 75. 



18 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Ladies' Basque Front with French Darts. 



<h 



I 




NOTE.-Wheu using this front with back on 
out one space as shown by dotted lines. 

When using this front with backs on page 21 and page 24 sho 



page 25, lengthen shoulder one space and let back dart 
page 24 shorten shoulder one space. See note page 19. 



i 



ADDRESS : H. P. EVAN CO.. CHICAGO. ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



19 



Ladies' Basque Front with French Bias Dart. 




NOTE.— Make under-arm seam length of under-arm measure and run hip curve up to it. See hip-curve 
on diagram. 



20 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Ladies' Basque with One Dart. 



> ' 




(SC/sjo.j) 



NOTE.— When using this front with back on page 21 and page 24, shorten shoulder one space as shown 
by dotted line. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



21 




Use this for Ladies witli NARROW BACK. 

This back can be used witli any front desired by marking front shoulder off one space on second line as 
shown in diagram on page 20. (See note page 20). 

Note. — For persons with long neck, usually termed sloping shouldeas, begin shoulder curve one space 
above first line as shown by dotted line ; and for persons with short necks, usually termed sqare shoulders, be- 
gin shoulder curve one space below first line, as indicated by open dotted line. This can be applied to any dia- 
gram of back, whether waist, basque, Jacket or wrapper, excepting designs for Fleshy Ladies. 



22 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




(SC, A/O. /) 



FLESHY LADIES' BASQUE BACK WITH TWO SICE=FORnS. 



Follow lines of close dotts for First side-form and lines of open dotts for Second side-form. 



ADDRESS: H. P. liVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



23 




(SC, NO, /) 



Fleshy ladies' basque back with two side=fonns and portions set apart for seams. 



24 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




(Sc, /^o, /J 



NARROW BACK FOR FLESHY LADIES'. 



To be used with any front by shortening front shoulder one space on second line. 



ADDRESS H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



25 




BROAD BACK FOR FLESHY LADIES. 

IF DIFFERENCE between bust and waist measure is less than lo inches use this diagram. 
This back can be used with any front by lengthening shoulder on front one space and letting out back dart 
one space as shown by dotted lines on diagram, page 18. 



?r, 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 





{SC. /Vo. £) 



Ladies' and Misses' Jacf<ets. 

Use back on page 28 or 29. For small re.ers use dotted line. Use small or large eoat collar, page 65. 
Use sleeve on page 38 or 39. See Ladies' vest, page 32 and 33. For Ladies' standing collar, see page 65. 



ADDRESS : H. l\ EVAN CO.. CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



27 




Double=Breasted Jacket. 

This Jacket can be made with cloak sailor-collar as shown on page 52 or with coat collar and reveres or 
close at the neck, as shown on this page. For large revere use outer line to point 15 for small revere use open 
dotted line to point 12, for either revere use large or small coat collar page 65. 

- For close-fitting neck use collar No. 3, page 64, and run revere point off on dotted line from point 8 at neck. 
Turn collars and reveres back on line of cross-mark. 

For sailor collar use inner line from point 5 through point 14 to point 9, and collar No 4, page 61. 

Use Back on page 28 or 29, sleeve, page 38, cuff, page 40. 

Place Hne for pocket one-half way between waist-line and bottom, and for pocket Illustrated page 52 

Measure 3 spaces each way from this line. 



28 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTiiM. 




(/C. A/^.?) 



Ripple Back. 

To be used with fronts on pages 25 and 26, make same length below waist-line as front. 
The part below waist-line may be drafted onto any basque back and shortened to any desirable length, or 
to correspond with front. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



29 




French Back. 

Can be used with fronts on pages 25 and 26. Make same length as front. 



If. 

^:. 



30 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 





Misse's Basque Front. 

The different parts of this neat costume will be found: Front of Jacket Basque this page, use dotted lines. 
Back, page 31, use ripple back. Jacket-collar, page 63. Sleeve, page 38. 

For Vest use front of waist page 36 with plain back. Skirt, Misses' three-gored skirt page 52. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



31 




Hisses' Basque Back. 

For Ripple back draft below waist-line by diagram on page 28, 
For Misses' plain waist see page 73. 



32 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



I 




I 



(je_. Nt>2\ 



Ladies' Vest Front. 

Place base-line of collar on bias of meterial for back seam. 
Join point 17 on collar to point 8 at front neck. 

Drafted by the 36 inch scale and of medium length waist, vest requires 13/8 yds. material 27 inches wide and 
% yds. lining for back and inside pockets. 



ADDRESS H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



33 








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(SC.NO. ^ 



Ladies' Vest Back, Collar and Pocket. 



34 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Shirt- H aist with Fancy Yoke. 

FRONT. 

Gather lower portion of front from point 9, bust-line to point 10 third line, and bring point 10 to point 17 
base-line. Join lower portion to yoke plain from point 9 to point 16 arm's-eye. 

Use front plait page 37. Use sleeve page 4 1 . Collar and cuffs page 65. 

For Waist drafted by the 36 inch scale and of medium length waist it requires 5% yds. 22 inch goods or 3% 
yds of 36 inch wide material. 



ADDRESS : H. P- EVAN CO.. CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



35 





Back of Shirt-waist 

Gather lower portion from point 8 to 5 and join to yoke from point 8 to 13 on base-line. Join yoke plain 
from point 8 to point 16 at arm's-eye. 



36 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEAl. 





Shirt= Waist with Pointed Yoke. 



No. 1, FRONT. Gather lower portion from point 13 third line to point 10 on line 22, join point 10 to point 
22 on base-line; join lower portion of yoke plain from point 13 to 16 at arm's-eye. 

For full front without yoke, (See Illustration page 17) omit yoke-lines and extend fullness up to neck, and use 
dotted curve at neck. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



37 



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FRONT PLAIT. 



Shirt=Waist Back. 

No. 2. Gather lower portion from point 13 on third line to point 5 on fourth line; join point 5 to point 18 
onbase-line; join lower portion to yoke plain from point 13 to arm's-eye. If tinder-arm-gore is desired, use 
point 13 on waist -line. 

No. 3. To make yoke vseamless in back, place center back on lengthwise fold of goods. 

No. 4. Shows garment below^ waist-line. 

No. 5. For this style omit fullness beyond Base-line. 

Use sleeve on page 41, collar and cuff on page 65 or cuff on page 77. For quanity of material see page 34. 



38 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 






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nedium Size Leg=o'=mutton Sleeve. 

(Fitting to Elbow.) 

See directions page 39. 

Material required for sleeves drafted by scale No. 36, and of medium length is 1% yds of 36 inch goods. 
Place dotted line on lengthwise thread of goods. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, IhU. AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



39 







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(SC, No. x) 










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Small Leg=o'= mutton Sleeve. 

{Pitting to Bibow.) 

Scale down base-line for approximate length of elbow and wrist. Get width of elbow and wrist by measur- 
ing one-half of actual measure from each side of center-points (point 28.) Then measure length of sleeve from 
begmnmg of mside seam on base-Hne (point 33) and in at elbow and wrist-points and raise or lower elbow and 
wrist to actual lengths of measures. 

Muscle messuremaybe applied by running in muscle-line one-half way between point 33 and elbow and 
applymg muscle measure same as wrist and elbow measures. 
For basting see page 5. 
Material required for medium size is iy2 yds. 36 inch goods. 



4-0 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



:^K' 



Circular Cuff. 
For Illustration see 
Page 27, 48 and 52. 



Sleeve, Capes and Epaulettes. 
Draft by scale "A" only! 

Diagram No. 1 give one-half of 
cape No. 1. Take up seam from 
point 2b to 30 on first line and 
gather cape between notch-marks 
at 20 and place[in arm-hole with 
notch-mark 5 at the shoulder 
seam and short end to the back. 
Diagrams 3, 4 and 5 give 
whole designs. Make notch- 
marks at three spaces from center 
as indicated on diagram and 
place this notch to shoulder seam, 
with short end to the back. 

Place dotted lines lengthwise 
of goods. 

In medium sizes No. 1 re- 
quires 1 yard 30 inch goods, 
No. 2 requires %yards and No. 3 
and No. 4 require 1/2 3'ards each 
of 30 inch goods. 





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(5c. //<?. 3) 



ADDRESS H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



41 




(sc N 0. 2) 



Bishop Sleeve with Cuff. 

Medium Size, See Illustration Page 35. 

I'or wider sleeve see page 75. 

For smaller sleeve see page 81 and 83. 

Measure down length of sleeve from point 21 on base-line to length of sleeve; if a narrow wrist band only 
is used scale down 4 spaces, for slope of sleeve as in Lesson No. 8, but if a broad cuff as the one given is used, 
measure up the base-line length of cuff (8 spaces) then give 4 spaces for slope of sleeve. 

Material required for sleeves drafted by scale No. 36, and of medium length, is 1% yards 36 inch goods. 

See page 5 for basting. 



42 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




I 



NOTE 
NOTE 



Ladies' Seven=Gore Consuelo Skirt. 

No. 1.— For measures see page 3. for drafting paragraph 1 and 9, page 4. 

No. 2. — In drafting finish top of each piece, then measure down for length of skirt from upper edge 
of gore letting measure strike base line at the number of inch of skirt length, or of the piece to which it will be 
joined then measure up as indicated on base-line. 

Measure from upper edge of gores through points on lower line and establish points along lower edge by- 
actual length of skirt measure (see dotted Hues on diagram) page 53. If skirt varies in length at the Front, 
Back and Sides, go gradually from on measure to the next as is shown in drafts on page 42 and 43. 
This applies to the drafting of all skirts. 



ADDRESS : H. P- EVAN CO.. CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



43 



No. 1. Front-Gore. 

No. 2. First Side-Gores. 

No. 3. Second Side-Gores. 

No. 4. Back-Gores. 

Join according to notch-marks. 

Fasten fullness at side of each gore in forward - 

turning plaits underneath. If Consuelo fullness is 

not desired, leave it off as indicated by dotted lines 
on No. 2. 

NOTE. An elastic ribbon may be tacked under- 
neath the skirt from 5 to 7 inch below the band to 
hold fullness in place. 

Drafted by scale No. 40, this skirt will require 
10% yards material 27 inches wide, or 8 yards 36 
inches wide, or 7 yards 44 inch wide goods. 




44 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 





.1 w 






y 



Ladies' Five^gore Skirt. 

No. 1 Front, No. 3 Back-Gores. 

See notes No. 1 and No. 2, page 42. 

Drafted by scale No. 40and of medium length skirt requires 8 yds. material 22 in. wide, or 6 yds. 30 in 
wide, or 4% yds. 44 in. wide. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



45 




Side=Oores of Ladies' Five-Oore Skirt. 

See Note Page 43. 
With Ladies having large Hips and sloping waist-line the side-measure is frequently the longest and the 
Back the shortest ; in this draft the application of such measures is shown. 



46 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 







Ladies' Three^Qore Skirt 

WITH WIDE OR NARROW FRONT. 

No. 1. Front. 
No. 2. Back-Gores. 
See paragraph 9, page 4; Also notes page 42 and 43. 
For narrow Front use dotted line. 

Drafted by scale No. 40 and of medium length skirt requires 6% yards 30 in. wide material, or 5^4 yards 36 
IN. goods or 4% yards 44 IN. wide goods. 



i 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



47 




"^ 


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o 




Ladies' Circular Skirt. p 

See notes page 42 and 43. 
Drafted by scale No. 40 and of medium length this garment requires 5% yards 36 in. goods, or 5V2 yards 
44 IN., or 3% yards 54 in. material 



48 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Ladies' Bicycle Trouser=S/cirt. 

Difterent vie\YS are here shown of this convenient and 
graceful garment so highly apprecialed by lady bicj^cleists. 



BACK PORTION OF LADIES' BICYCLE 
TROUSERS-SKIRT. 

See page 3 for skirt measures and give 3 

inches addional for back as shown on dia- 
gram. See paragraph 9, page 4- for darfting. 

Place back portion to front part of skirt 
according to notch-marks and cut in one 
piece for circular skirt as indicate! by dotted 
outline. 

For Skirt and Trousers drafted by scale No. 
40 and of medium length 7V2 yards material 
36 inches wide is required, or 6% yards 44 in. 
wide, or 5^ yards 54 in. wide 

See page 51 for Trousers and directions 
for putting together. 




(h O. /,/ ^' 5 J 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINxNECONNE, WIS. 



49 




I S e. Ho. li 



Front=portion of Ladies' Bicycle Trouser=Skirt. 



50 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Ladies' Bicycle Trousers and Skirt. 

No. 1. Trousers with extra width (diagram page 51). 
No. 2. Ladies' Consuelo Skirt, (diagrams page 42 and 43). 
Skirt and Trousers may be finished seperatly. 

When trousers are worn without skirt and greater fullness is desired, use dotted line extending outside 
seam 10 spaces and gather garment into the band. 

Consuelo cycling skirt may be worn over trouser instead of skirt page 49, if desired. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



51 




;yo. ^- 



No. 1. Front. 



No. 2. Back. 



Ladies' Bicycle Trousers. 

Use same measures as for skirt. Draft by paragraphs 4 and 5. Make a line one-halfway between bottom 
line and line 50 on front and line 60 on back. 

In putting garment together, join outside and inside seams of trousers turnup hem and insert elastic at bot- 
tom take up darts at top of trousers. Join inside seams of skirt and take up superfluous width at top by two 
backward-turning plaits at the back and two forward-turning plaits at the front. Slip skirt over trousers and 
join bolji in one seam from center back to notch-mark on fronts and finish front with fly. Draft fly and place 
as indicated on front of skirt. 



k 



52 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Hisses Costume. 

Three-gore skirt, this page. 
Reefer Jacket, page 27 and 28. 
Sleeve page 38. Jacket sailor- 
collar No. 4, page 61. Gaunt- 
let Cuff, page 41. 



Back=gores of Hisses' Thfee=gore Skirt. 



NOTE. — See skirt measure page 3. See note No. 2. page 42. 

Use wide front of Ladies' Three-gored skirt page 46. 

Divide back-gore on dotted line for Five-gore skirt and bring front edge of 
back-gore on sti-aight edge of cloth. Medium size skirt requires 3% yards ma- 
terial 36 inches wide. 



ADDRESS H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



53 



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-Vs. 



Misses' and Children's Concular Sliirt. 

See skirt measures page 3. 

rimsh top of skirt first, then measure down base-line length of front measure and up as indicated on base- 
line. Measure from upper edge down as indicated by dotted lines. If all measures, front, back and side, are 
not of a length go gradully from one to the next. 



k. 



54 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Ladies' Tea=Qowns and Wrappers. 

WITH OR WITHOUT WAUTEAU-BACK AND TRAIN. 

See paragraphs 2 and 9, page 4, and directions for measures page 3. 

To show if possible more clearly how the measures and principles in drafting of the Basque and Skirt com- 
bine in these garments, the measures of Object Lessons from 1 to 6 have been used in the upper part of these 
drafts and the measures applied in Ladies' five-gored skirt (page 44-45) have been used for lower porticm. 

In drafting complete the whole upper part of each piece first. After having completed the whole upper part 
of front, measure from point 8 at the neck down the entire length of front measure ( 56 in.) and measure up 6 
inches; then in measuring from sloping waist-line down to lower point the actual measure of the skirt front is 
found {42iN.). Apply length of Under-arm measure, from point 23 on Bust-line, and down the entire length of 
the measure, and then measure from waist-line and down to that point and find the length of side of skirt 
(42y2 IX. ); then go gradually from one measure to the next as in skirts. In like manner get length of skirt in 
the back and measure side-pieces from sloping Avaist-line for length and slope as in' drafting skirts by going 
gradually from one measure to the next. 

If train is desired take measures accordingU^ and go gradually from one measure to the next as indicated by 
dotted lines. 

Use sleeve page 75 or 41. Collarettes page 61. 

Material required for garment drafted by the 36 inch scale and for medium height is fifteen and three-quar- 
ters yards 32 inch goods, or twelve and one-half yards 44 inch wide material. 



ADDRESS : H. P- EVAN CO.. CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



55 



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Ladies' Tea=Qown. 

Bring points 22, 14- and 6 in to point 2 on same line, this will bring points 26, 18 and 2 on line 4 together 
at the neck-curve. 



56 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




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Front of Ladies' Gown with two Darts. 

In using this front under front on page 55, back dart may be taken through the outside front if desired. 



ADDRESS H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



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Front of Ladies' Gown with one Dart. 



58 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 










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Under-Arm-Qore and Side=Form=Qore of Ladies' Gown. 

See Directions Page 54. 



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ADDRESS : H. P. EVAN CO.. CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



59 





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WAUTEAU BACK. 










CENTER-BACK OF LADIES' GOWN. 



Both edges of Wanteau Back is joined in seam of center-back to the hip-line; where each edge of the Wau- 
teau Back is joined to each edge of center-backs and carried in two seams to the bottom of the skirt. Wauteau 
Back may be either gathered or plaited. 



60 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Ladies' and Misses' Cape. 

WITH OR WITHOUT REVERES. 

Draft b3^ Bust measure. Use scale "B" on the 
three lines of the neck, line 30, 32 and 41, and scale 
"A" for all the rest. Shoulder seam may be omit- 
ted by holding shoulder edges together when 
cutting garment out. 

Use collar No. 2, page 61, placing point 
11 on collar to 41 on neck, and point 16 
on collar to 5 on line 41 on cape. For 
close-fitting neck use collar No. 3, 
page 64, or No. 4 or 5, page 65. 

To lengthen or shorten 
cape, measure below or 
above the given points 
to length desired be- 
fore dra^ving out 
er line. 

For garment 
of medium size- 
and length 2% 
yards, 36 inch 
material is 
required . 




ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



61 



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Skirt page 53. 

Ladies' and Misses' Collars and Collarettes. Sleeve page 38. 

No. 1. Sailor-collaretset, illustrated page 54. No. 2. Cape collar see page 60. Waist No. 8 and 

No. 3. Collarette Illustrated page 54. No. 4. Jacket and Basque sailor-collar, No. 9 or 10, page 71 . 
illustrated page o2. No. 5 and 6. French Collarette, illustrated this page. Join Take up dart in lin- 

Nos. 5 and 6 by bringing points 5 and 26 of each together as notched and seaming up ing and gather the out- 

on shoulder. side. 



62 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




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No. 1. Draped collars with sailor-collar back. 

No. 2. Drapery collar with pointed back. 

No. 3. Drapery collarette with Medici collar. 

No. 4. Short Medici collar, to be slightly rolled or turned back. ? ' 

Drafted by the 36 ix. scale. Nos. 1 and 2 require one and one-half yards of 20 or 30 inch goods and seven- 
eights yards of 44 or more inches wide material 

No. 3. (with No. 4. ) requires one yard 20 inch goods; one-half yard of 30 inch; or five-eights yard 44 inch 
wide material. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



63 




{Sc./Vo, 3) 



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No 1. Jacket Revere. No. 2. Collar (used with No. 1.) No. 4. Drapery Collaret e. ^ 

(Illustrated page 30.) No. 4. Cape Collar (used with No. 1 . ) (I"-';^^^"* '^^" ff ' .,. ^ , 

Jacket Revere may be drafted on the front of the jacket or used separatly. When drafted sepa.atl,. apply 
front measures same as for Jacket or basque with v»hich it will be used. 

If cape-back is desired, use No. 3 and join to No. 1, by placing point 4 on back to point o on first 
revere and point 26 on back topoint 17 on line 1 of revere, as indicated by dotted outline 

When using collar No. 2, finish it separatly and place it underneath, tacking corners of No. 1 over ,t. 



64 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



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Ladies' and Misses' Revere Coat= Collars. 

Join notched edges of collars to neck of garments, turn collars and revers over at lines of cross-marks. 
Drafted by scale No. 36, No. 1 requires % yards, Nos. 2 and 3 require Vs yard each of 22 inches wide ma- 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



65 



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No. 1. Standing Collar and straight Cufts. 



For No. 3 cut No. 2 through on dotted lines and alio w seams 



No. 2. Seamless Shirt-waist Collars and Cuffs. on all edges as usual, excepting on lower edge of turn-up 



No. 3. Linen Collars and Cuffs ^vith seams. 

No. 4. Medium Coat-collar. 

No. 5. Large Coat-collar. 

No. 6. Rolling Collar. 

No. 7. Standing Dress-collar. 



portion of cuff which w^ill reduce the width as illustrated. 
Use dotted line to point 2 on front of collar. 

No. 1 requires Vi yard and Nos. 2 and 3 require V2 yard 
of 27 or 36 inch wide material. 



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60 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




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Ladies' Open Drawers. 

Note.— Take Hip measure same as for skirts. Get length on side from waist to knee or to length desired. 
Draft by scake 'A" only. 

Garment drafted to 40 inch hip measure and of medium length requires 2 yards 36 inches wide material and 
2 yards of edging. 

Seam up fronts from point 25 to 32 and turn in front and back facing on dotted line. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO. ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



67 









Ladies' French Half' open Drawers. 

For Directions and quantity of material see note page 66. 
These drawers may be buttoned straight up the back or lapped as illustrated. Seam up fronts and backs 
to points 41, and turn m facings on dotted line. 



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68 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 











Ladies' and Misses' Closed Drawers. 

When using scale larger than No. 31, draft by scale "A" only. 
See note page 66 for measures and quantity of material. 



i 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



69 





Children's Drawers. 

Take hip and length measures same as for ladies' 
drawers, also measure from inside-seam; in drafting, meas- 
ure up from bottom length of inside seam, (here 5 in. ) 

Drafted by the 26 inch scale and of medium length one 
yard 36 inch goods is required. 

For waist use high or low necked designs on page 70 
or 71. 





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Small Children's Drawers. 

This design is intended for small children only, and 
requires only Hip and Waist measures. 

Drafted by scale No. 23 it requires three-fourths yards 
36 or more inches wide. Fold goods on a true bias, fold 
again on a true bias, making a four-double three-cornered 
piece. Place the corner at the lower 37 point with the two 
single folds on line with two rows of * . 

Seam up outside seam from point 24 on base-line to 
notch and hem edges narrowly to 12 first line, gather up- 
per edge from notch at 1 8 first line, to fit bands, cut three 
and three-quarters inches wide and one and one-half inchcg 
longer than one-half of waist-measure to allow for seams 
and laps. 




70 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




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Children's Waists. 




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For these waists the measures are taken and apphed the same as for Misses' and Ladies' Waist. The 
waist-measure is omited in some designs which are more particularly intended for small Children. Allow one- 
quarter inch on edges of center-back for lap, when closing in the back. 

No. 1. Seamless- waist with loose fittino- back. 

No. 2. Seamless-waist with close-fitting back. 

No. 3. Back of plain waist; use dotted line to point 18 if close fit is desired. This back can be used with 
Front No. 4 or No. 8. 

No. 4. Front of plain waist. This front can be used with Backs Nos. 3, 7, 9 or 10. 

Use dotted neck-lines on No. 3 and No. 4 for low neck. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO. ILL.. AND WINNECONNE. WIS. 



71 



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CHILDREN'S WAISTS CONTINUED. 



No. 5 and No. 6 are used together. 
No. 7 can be used with No. 4 or No. 8 
No. 8 can be used with No. 3, 7, 9 or 10. 



Nos. 9 and 10 require waist-measure, 



and can be used with Nos. 4 or 8. 



72 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 








Misses' and Girls' Toilette 




Follow dotted line on back, for lower section. Gather upper edge of lower sectionsfrom point 19, to lit yoke. 
Make skirt straight the required length and one=quarter of width 85 spaces. 
Use plain sleeve page 15, and sleeve page 41 to required length for puff. 
Collar No. 3 page 65 or any other prefered. 



i 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO. ILL., AND WINNECONNE,.:WIS. 



73 







Misses' and GiHs' Toilette. 




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NO. 1. misses' waist back. 

NO. 2. SLEEVE-CAPE. 

For Misses', use as a foundation for waist, 
Misses' basque front to waist-line, page 30, with No. 
1 this page; for girls, use waists on page 70 or 71. 

For full portions of waist lise lower sections of 
front and back page 72; following projecting lines 
straight to arm's-eye. Make folds 2 spaces wide 
when finished. 

Cut skirt straight, allowing 8 inches for four 
tucks, each one inch deep and one inch apart, make 
one=quarter of skirt 90 spaces wide. 

Use sleeve page 38, or any other prefered. 

Sleeve-cape this fjage, gather upper edge and 
place point 32 line 3-, three spaces in front of 
shoulder seam, bring the shorter edges to the front 
and the back. 



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74 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Little Oir/s' Apron. 

ILLUSTRATED PAGE 17. 
SEE PARAGRAPH 2, PAGE 4. 

Take measure for length of garment from under the arm 
to length desired and apply measure from point 17 on front 
and from point 15 on back, and allow 4 inches below for 
hem. 

For waist lining use Nos. 3 and 4 page 70, following 
dotted lines for low neck. Close lining in the back with but- 
tons and button-holes; outside may, if desired, be closed by 
seaming up to waist-line in the back. 

Make frill 2 inches wide, cut cross- 
wise of goods and allow for seams, 
fold through the center making frill 1 
inch wide when finished. Lace or em- 
broidery may be used, if prefered. 

If sufficiently wide material is 
used to avoid any seams, place base- 
line of front and back together and 
fold of goods at center front. 

Material required for garment 
drafted by the 24 inch scale and of 
medium length is, of flouncing, 36 or 
more inches wide, 1% yards; of 22 
inch wide goods it requires 4 yards, 
or 30 inch goods SVs yards. 

Girls' Square=necli Apron. 

ILLUSTRATED THIS PAGE. 

Follow dotted lines on diagrams 
and allow one inch at the top to turn 
down for frill. 






C5*c./vo,3). 






ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNH. WIS. 



75 





Qirls' Toilette. 

Follow dotted lines on apron dia- 
grams for skirt section. 

For waist use diagrams on page 
70 or 71. 

Use full sleeve this page, over 
close fitting lining, page 15, setting 
outside up on lining for cuff effect. 

See directions page 41 for drafting 
loose sleeve. Use epaulettes No. 2, 
page 40. . 

Material required for garment 
drafted by scale No. 27 and of medium 
length is, 7% yards 22 inch wide goods 
or 5% yards 30 inches wide, or 4% 
yards 36 inch wide goods. 



{SC. /vo.j^ 



76 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 





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GIRLS' SAILOR COSTUME 



In cutting, place No. 1, 2, 3 and 4 on lengthwise fold of goods as indicated bv *. 
Join collar to neck of blouse without band. 
Cut under-waist by designs on page 70 or 71. 
Use sleeve page 75 shortening sleeve 12 spaces, the length of cuff. 
Cut skirt straight the required length, make one-quarter of skirt 85 spaces wide. 

Drafted by the 24- inch scale for a child of medium height, it requires 5y2 yards 27 inch wide goods, or 3Vi 
yards 54 inches wide. 



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ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE,~WIS. 



77 



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No. 2. Blouse Back. 

No. 3. Sailor-Collar in two designs. 



No. -i. Cuff. 
No. 5. Pocket 



78- 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Little Boys' Suit. 

Skirt page 53 
Blonse- waist page 82. 
Sleeve page 81. 
Collar No. 1 this page. 



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Sailor=Collars. 

No. 1 . Sailor-Collar with stole front and straight or pointed back. 

No. 2. Lapel Sailor-Collar. No. 3. Star Sailor-Collar with stole ends. 

No. 4. Star Sailor-Collar. No. 5. Sailor-Collar with square or pointed front. 



ADDREvSS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



79 




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(S C. A/ 0.3) 




Boys' Costume. 

boys' blouse- waists with extra fullness. 

Take up extra width at neck in thre forward turning-plaits. 

For smooth fitting top and extra full lower part, place dotted line on straight edge of goods and follow 
dotted neck line, (See illustration page 17.1 Use back page 82. Use sleeve, over-lap. wrist-band and collar 
page 81, front plait page 37, knee-pants page 88. 

Drafted by the 24 inch scale and of medium length, waist requires 2y2 yards 27 inch goods, Or 1% yards 36 
inch wide goods. 



80 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 





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Boys' Shirt= Waist. 

For tucked shirt-waist make tucks two spaces wide and the distance between three spaces, which leaves one 
plane space to show between each tuck. 

Lay tucks the required length and press well before cutting out. 

Use front plait page 37 (see paragraphs page 4). Drafted by the 25 in. scale and of medium lengths, 
Tucked waist requires two and three-quarter yards of 27 inch goods or one and three-quarters yards of 36 in. 
wide goods, and plain waist requires two and three-eights yards of 27 inch, or one and five-eights 36 inch wide 
goods. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE. WIS. 



81 






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Sleeve, Overlay, Wnst=band and Collar. 

Either stj'le of waist may be worn with kilts, knee-pants or sailor-trousers, and either may, for small boys, 
be decorated with lace or embroidery. 



82 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 






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Boys' Sailor Blouse. 

No. 1. Blouse Front. 
No. 2. Blouse Back. 

Use collar on page 77 and join it to blouse neck without band. 

For under-waist use No. 1 page 70. Drafted by scale No. 26 and of medium lengths, Sailor blouse re- 
quires two and five-eights yards of 27 inch wide material. 
Use Sailor- trousers page 89. 
For high-neck blouse, follow base-line and dotted line at neck on front (see Illustration page 78). 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



83 



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Tam O' Shanter. 

This may be used for Girls' and 
Misses also. 

No. 4. Crown. 

No. 5. Band. 

Measure the head where cap will 
come and draft by scale No. 28 for child- 
ren and by scale 30 for Misses. 

Make the band one and three-quar- 
ters inches wide and measure out from 
base-line one-half of head-measure. 

Crown may be gathertd or plaited to 
fit band, and for Misses turned up on 
side with bow and quill feathers. 

To make either si^e requires five- 
eights of a yard of any width material and 
the same quantity of lining and interlin- 
ing. 




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No. 5. Sleeve with cuff to be turned up 
at dotted line. For wider sleeve see 
page 81, 41 and 75. 



84 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



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Boys' Jacket with Reveres. 

See page 86 for directions. 

In drafting collar, make revere por- 
tion one inch shorter on line of cross- 
marks than Jacket on line of cross-marks. 

Any prefered collar may be used, or 
Jacket neck may be underfacedand worn 
tinder waist-collar. 

Seams of Jacket may be left open to 
waist-line. 

Use sleeve on page 87 and see direc- 
tions. For quantity of material see 
page 85. 



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Full length Revere-Sailor-Collar. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



85 







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Boys' Sack Jacket. 

See page 86 for direction. 

Use sleeve page 87. 

Use collar No. 2 page 78. 

Back inav be whole or with seam in center-back. 

Material required for Jacket drafted]by scale No. 24 and 
of medium length is one and one-quarter yards 27 inch goods 
or five-eights yards 54 inch wide material. 







86 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




'For Knee Pants see page 

88 





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Boys' Double= Breasted Goat. 

Take breast measure over coat or jacket as directed on page 2, take under-arm measure a trifle short, apply 
it from point 25 as indicated by small arrow; scale down fro'rri waist-line for length and proper shaping as 
given in diagram. 

If different length of garment is desired take length of front from neck to required length and apply it from 
point 8 at neck down to length of measure, then scale up from this point marking at 5, 18 and 26, and make 
back same length from point 18 that front is from point 18 down to point 5 bottom line of side-seam, and ex- 
tend it one space below to retain shaping in back. 

Place seams of sleeve to notch-marks in arm's-eye. Join point 17 on collar to point 8 on front neck and 
point 28 on base-line to center-back of coat. Roll coat and collar over on line of cross-marks. 

For seam in center back follow dotted line. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE. WIS. 



87 




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No. 1. Sleeve. No. 4. Left upper pocket. 

No. 2. Coat back. No. 5. Right upper pocket. 

No. 3. Coat- sailor-collar. No. 6. Lower pockets both sides. 

Drafted by the 26 inch scale and of medium length, coat requires two and one-quarter yards 27 inch goods, 
one and one-eight yards 54 inch wide material. 



88 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 







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No. 1 . Front. 

No. 2. Back. 

No. 3. Front Under-lap. 

No. 4. Back Puff. 

No. 5, Fly. 

No. 6. Waist-band. 

No. 7. Front Waist-band. 

No. 8. Back Waist-band. 






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Boys' Knee Pants. 

Use measures on page 94, running measures No. 3 and 4 to the knee only, or length desired. 

Measure on front from first line and on back from point 9 down length of outside seam, and from that point 
up length of inside seam, and from there scale up 8 spaces. 

On first line of back place point 16 of scale on base-Hne and mark at waist-measure in small scale, then 
place the 8 point on scale at this point and mark at 11 and at the waist-measure again in the small scale. 

If pants are open in side, darft under-lap on back according to sailor trousers, see page 89, and use front 

under-lap, and bands No 7 and 8. 

If sides are closed use flv. Measure front of pants from first line to second and make fly same length and scale 
down 6 spaces. When fly is used, use band No. 3. Measure by square out one-half of waist-measure and ex- 
tend the left on button side 4 spaces for width of under-lapping fly. 

Drafted by the 26 inch scale and of medium length, pants require one yard 27 inch material, or five-eights 
of a vard 54 inch wide goods. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE. WIS. 



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For measures and directions see page 94; omit line above knee line. 

Make evelets in back opening and close by lacing, place puff, No. 4, underneath. 

No. 7 and No. 8 are under-facing bands. No 7 may be drafted 15 spaces to reach over onto pocket or full 
length, 20 spaces; double bands on dotted line. 

Drafted by the 26 inch scale and of medium length, trousers require one and three-quarters yards 27 inch 
material and seven-eighths of a yard 54 inch wide goods. 



90 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



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No. 1. Front under-lap. 
No. 2. Front over-lap. 
No. 3. Pocket. 




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Boys' Sack Shirt. 

Take breast measure, length of front from neck to length desired, also neck measure. Take sleeve and 
wrist measures as for dress sleeve. Measure down from point 7 length of front measure and scale down 3 
spaces for back and up 7 spaces, make a point one-half way between points 7 and 33. Open front to 
point 33 and finish edges with Nos. 1 and 2. 

Use sleeve No. 6 and over-lap No. 3 and neck-band No. 9. 

In drafting collar place curve N on point 4, as directed, and let the square touch first line at one-half tha 
number of inches of neck-measure and mark 3 spaces beyond on lower line, Get curves for neck band in like 
manner two spaces apart. Notch at point 3 for under-lapping end of band and join to right-hand side of shirt, 
notch at 4 and join to over-lapping or left. side of front leaving the end beyond to extend under the collar. Join 
point 4 on collar to points 2 (on base-line) of band. 

Drafted by scale No. 30 and of medium length shirt requires two and one-half yards of material 27 inches 
wide. Follow dotted line bv curve K for yoke on back. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE. WIS. 



91 



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No. 4. Slerve over-lap. 

No. 5. Sleeve. 

No. 6. Shoulder-yoke. 

No. 7. Collar. 

No. 8. Waist-band. 

No. 9. Neck-band. 

Shirt with Yoke. 

Join points 6 and 21 on shoulder of yoke and shirt front. Join yoke to back plane to point 15, gather back 
to fit yoke. 



92 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Men's Drawers. 

Draft on same plan as men's pants. 

For measures and directions see page 
94 and 95. 

Fly and waist-band are drafted to- 
gether. Measure drawers from first line 
to second, and make fly same length from 
first line to fourth line, scale dow^n six 

spaces. 

For width of band measure from 
point 2 first line out one-half of waist- 
measure, scale back 1 spaces and extend 
3 spaces for lower point, from point three 
scale down 8 and 10 spaces. Make eyelets 
in each edge, and lace up the back opening. 






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ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNErWlS. 



93 




^A'^- No./, 




Men's Vests. 

Take breast measure, get length of front from center back of neck down front to length required. From first 
line scale up 9 spaces by scale "B"; for all the rest apply paragraphs 4 and 5. 

Apply front measure from point 7, top line, letting tape-line strike base-line at front measure, from this point 
scale up 8 and 14 spaces. Measure front from point 25 down to point 8 and make back same length from 
point 30 down, then scale up 4 and 8 spaces. 



94 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Men's Pants. 

1. Measure over largest part of hips; take a 
smooth, but not a tight measure. 

2. Waist measure, take it medium snug. 

3. Length of outside seam taken from as high 
up on the side as garment will be worn to sole of 
boot. 

4. Length of insde seam from forking to knee 
and down to sole of boot. 

See paragraph 1, page 4. 

Measure from first line on front down length 
of outside seam ; from this point measure up length 
of inside seam, and from there down length to knee 
and up 8 spaces. 

Make a point one-half way betw^een bottom 
and knee and another between knee and length of 
inside seam point. 

Extend the left or overlapping front about 
three-eights inch beyond points 22 and 28 as 
shown by extra line. 

Use Nos. 5 and 6 on page 88. 




ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHFCAGO. ILL.. AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



95 






Back of Men's Pants. 

Measure down from point 9 
length of outside seam from that 
point measure up length ot in= 
side seam, from this ])oint mea- 
sure down length to knee find up 
8 spaces. 

Make a |6oint one-half wav 
between bottom and knee and 
another between knee and length 
of inside seam point. 

On hrst line of back, place the 
1 6 point of scale on bese-line and 
mark at waist measure in small 
scale, then bring the 8 point of 
scale on this point and mark at 
'1 and at the waist measure 
again in small scale. 



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THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



Infants' Department. 




Infants' Dress with Pointed Yoke. 




IN DRAFTING ALL INFANTS' GARMENTS USE SCALE No. 18. (^^ /^^, j) 

Infants' Sleeve and WnsUBand. 

Measure from point 3 down 34 inches for length of Dress and allow 22 spaees below for hen.. The under- 
do ''^^aI ^^ ! ' ^^''"''"' ^"^ '^' ^PP°'^' ""^ ^^ ^^' ''^''' B^^k ^"d Front. Open eenter-back 25 spaces 
down and hem both edges narrowly. For arms'-eye bring point 12 on second line to point 3 on base-Hne in a 
plan turning towards the arm's-eye; this brings points 6 to 18 together. 

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oi sKirt to fit yoke. " 

Gather sleeve between notch-marks and bring notch-mark at 38 to point 20 on third Hne of voke. Gather 
lower edge of sleeve from notch-mark to seam. 



ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 97 




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98 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



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Infants' Dress with Square Yoke. 



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DRAFT ON SAME PLAN AS DRESS ON PAGE 96. 
Follow dotted line on arm's-eye for Back, and bring point 16 on base-line in a pleat running towards the 
seam ; this brings 6, 10 and 22 on first line together and 8 and 24 together. The distance between points 22 
and 24 is seamed up for shoulder and point 19 of yoke is joined to it. Join skirt section to yoke plane to notch- 
mark and to gather rest to fit yoke. Join point 38 and sleeve (page 96) to shoulder seam. To obtain goods 
straio-ht on front and back of voke, make a seam on dotted line for shoulder and. place Hne for back on straight 

edge of cloth. 

For Dress No. 3 use diagrams on this page and skirt-section on page 9 9 following dotted line from point 19. 
Under-face both back edges of all yokes. Overlappings are allowed. 

No. 2 requires two and fi\e-eights yards 36 inch 

Material required for No. 1, page 97, and for No. 3, this page is, for each garment, two and one-half yards 
36 inches wide goods with one-third of a yard of tucking or all-over embroidery for yoke, or of one materia^ 
36 inches wide goods, two and five-eights yards. 



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THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Infants* Sack. 

Front of sack and collar may be square or round. 
If rounded, measure from lower corner 20 spaces 
along lower outline and 25 spaces up front outline 
and 10 spaces from corner through point 51, and ouf 
line as indicated; on collar scale up 5 spaces from 
point 19 and round off as dotted. Gather top of 
sleeve between notches and join point 30 to shoulder- 
seam. 

Shirr bottom of Sleeve on dotted line and fasten 
stay underneath. For seamless back place base-Hne 
on length-wise fold of goods. 

Materia] required is, five-eighths yard 44 inch 
goods, or seven-eighths yard 27 inch goods. 

A pretty finish for outer edges is button-hole 
stitching in scolops, or fancy-stiched hem for which 
must be allowed. 



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ADDRESS: H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



101 



Infants' Foot-Wear. 

Outline bv Object Lesson Sou/VRE. 

Mark carefully all notch-marks as 
they appear on diagrams and be guided 
by them in puttjng the parts together, 
placing the single notch-marks together 
and the double together. 

No. 1. Infants' Smoe. 

Mo. 1. X'pper section. 

No. 2. Sole. 

Seam up toe on upper, No. l,to point 
22, line 13. Undertace edges and fancy 
stich tops or slash and draw ribbon 
through. Make eyelets in front edges 
and lace with baby-ribbon or silk lacing 
cord. Join No. 2, the sole, to itpper by 
notch-marks. 

No. 2. Inf.\nts' Slipper. 

No. 1. Upper portion. 

No. 2. Sole. 

No. 3. Strap. 

Seam up the back and join sole, No. 2, 
to upper portion by notch-marks. Place 
point 12 on strap to notch-mark at 10 
on upper. Finish upper edges and strap 
with silk cord or ribbon binding. 

No. 3. Infants' Moccasin. 

Seam up heel of No. 1, the^sole, and 
join it to No. 2, the back upj^er, by the 
single mark. Join single mark of No. 3 
to the single marks of numbei's 1 and 2 
and the double marks to the double 
marks of No. 1, gather No. 1 between 
double marks to fit No. 3 between double 
marks. 

Make short slashes in top- of No. 2 
and run ribbon through and tie in front. 

Any of these designs can be made 
from one-quarter yard 20 or more 
inches wide material. 

Cut from Charaoi, shoe requires a 
piece SVa by liy2 inches, Slipper 8 by 11 
inches, Moccassins 8V2 by 12 inches. 
When using Chamoi, allow no seams, 
and so over-and-over. 



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102 



THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 




Infants' Band, Pinning-Blanket and Skirts. 

No. 1. Band— This may be made of Flannel or Muslin, and requires, for a double band, one-third yard 27 or 

more inches wide. 
No. 2. Pinning-Blanket, requires one yard of flannel 36 or more inches wide, or if goods are narrow, two 

widths each one yard long, and for double band, one-third yard of muslin 36 inches wide. 

Gather flannel into band to the 45 mark leaving ends of band to lap over. 
No. 3 and 4. Skirt with waist buttoned on the shoulder. Use lower line on diagram No. 3 for low neck and 

dotted upper line for high neck. 
No. 5. Notch skirt band 2 spaces beyond base-line and gather lower section into it. Use dotted hues for high 

neck. 
No. 6. Use diagrsm No. 3 for front following dotted upper line for neck and diagram No. 4 for back. 
Numbers 3, 4, 5 and 6 require for each skirt two widths of material each one yard long and 36 inches wide, and 

three-eights yards 36 iuches wide material for each waist; for edging two and three-quarters 

yards lace or embroidery. 



ADDRESS': H. P. EVAN CO., CHICAGO, ILL., AND WINNECONNE, WIS. 



103 









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104 THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM. 



The ''Standard Fashion Report/' 



New Styies will be Published Semi=annually, 



"The Standard Fashion Report" will contain diagrams 
and engraved illustrations of the prevailing styles, with full 
directions lor drafting and putting together each garment and 
amount of material required for each. 

Subscription one year 50 cents payable in advance, single 
copies 30 cents. 

The "Standard Fashion Report" must be ordered directly 
from our office as no agent will be allowed to collect subscrip- 
tion for these books. 

Address all ordersfor the "The Standard Fashion Report," 
or for agencies, or AA^holesale and retail prices on svtems, to 
our Supply Office and Mail Order Department at 

WiNNECONNE, WiS., P. O. BoX 80. 

H. P. Evan Co 

Central Office, Chicago, III. 



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